No no, don’t think this blog will exist sew blogit doesn’t seem like it, but I plan to talk to you about something else soon…
But it’s clear that rotten January weather + health restrictions push us to stay at home = I occupy my free time behind my sewing machine!
I told you in my previous article that I sewed a lot at the beginning of the year, and here is one of the sewing that I preferred to do, even though it gave me a hard time.
Wait, let me tell you all about it!
We were driving home from our New Year’s Day and I was distractedly checking my emails when I came across a Makerist ad… Instant crush on this incredible Hamburger Liebe knit jacquard in 100% organic cotton. I liked the colors, the patterns, EVERYTHING and Makerist had the great idea to offer a reduction. Neither one nor two I mess with my patterns of made sweatshirts, and I fix my eyes on Alice, who was already sewn last year. I love its loose sleeves that gather nicely at the wrists, as well as its very simple cut that doesn’t require a lot of fabric. However, I didn’t really want a V-neck, so I told myself to simply modify the basic pattern.
On paper it looked easy, except I wanted to do a little too much… By skipping the neckline, I managed to fit my pattern into a very small 1m20 fabric, with even a little rab to the wrist bands and the bottom of the sweatshirt, which I chose to sew on the back for more contrast. It is jacquard knitting that makes this possible.
But once sewn, I found that the neckline was actually a bit too wide for me, and not finished enough. So I sewed a band around the collar, always with the same fabric, on the contrasting back. I did it in a hurry, without really measuring, and I sewed a strip that was too long… Suddenly it gaped. On Instagram, a subscriber told me the rule of proportion for necklines: you need to multiply the width of the collar by 0.8 and pull the band a little when you sewso it really stops it from yawning and it hugs the neckline well.
Except I did the math in my head and instead of shortening my ribbon by 16cm, I only shortened it by 1.6cm.
Of course my third version of this damn collar was still yawning!
So I sewed off / shortened / sewed for the 4th timeand luckily this time was the right one!!
(yes, I spent more time unstitching this sweatshirt than sewing it, but you know what sewing grandmothers say: ” doing and undoing is always work!“) (and they are right!)
In truth, I don’t regret a single second I spent on this book: I learned a lot and I have the sweatshirt I really wanted in a minimum of fabric!
Here is the result:
It’s pep’s that I like, in my favorite colors, and it’s cut exactly the way I wanted it! Is it a little extra? Absolute comfort, the quality of this organic cotton jacquard knit is incredible.
Practical information : the sweatshirt/sweater pattern Alice can be found in Fibremood paper magazine number 12 or as a single pdf download.
The pattern goes from XS to XXL. I sewed my sweatshirt in M.
Changes made : I cut out the round neck bust in two copies. The bottom band of the sweatshirt was a bit tight on my previous sweatshirt, I replaced it with the bottom band of the Chouette Kit raglan sweatshirt. I added a band at the collar, 20% shorter in length than the original neckline.
I bought my fabric on the Makerist website, it’s Hamburger Liebe Darling Things Pasta jacquard knit (it comes in other colors) and used a special jersey needle, my serger and a double needle to finish the hems and exposed seams.
♥︎ ♥︎ ♥︎
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