The French love pasta. 500,000 tonnes are consumed each year. Every Saturday dinner through its series “Pasta così! », 20 minutes teaches you how to prepare your pasta well or introduces you to an original recipe. Today we are on our way to Nantes, where the artisan pastry chef Henri Refuto has gained a good reputation with his speciality: dome-shaped ravioli.
Forget everything you think you know about ravioli: in the Refuto workshop in Nantes MIN, pasta is treated like “haute couture”. Everything is prepared by hand, carefully, with only “ultra-fresh” products, in limited quantities. “I make the ravioli that I like. They are unique, often magnificent. They are generously rounded, the filling is covered with a minimum of dough, and this fine dough appears transparent after cooking. For me, this is the criteria of excellence for a ravioli,” explains the man who hates the “flatness” and “shininess” of industrial ravioli.
“No one makes dough like this anymore”
Due to his family heritage, Henri Refuto is influenced by Neapolitan and Provencal cuisine, and Henri Refuto is also willingly inspired by Asian pasta. But it was meeting an Italian craftsman who makes his ravioli in the traditional way that this former professional in the banking sector and sports communications one day clicked. “I found it wonderful. With hard work and meaning,” he explains.
He equips himself with a rolling mill, a pressure screw press, a bronze guide and sets out. “No one in the world makes dough like this anymore. It is a job of precision and repetition. You need to be focused, not counting your hours. This is my psychotherapy. »
Seven variants every week
Sold in sheets of twelve in the markets, including the covered market in Talensac, these ravioli are available in seven different flavors each week: Comté, goat cheese and rosemary, parmesan, tapenade, chanterelles, pumpkin, Saint-Jacques, Serrano… “It all depends on the seasons, my wishes and the producers I meet. I do a lot of experiments before I find the perfect formula,” says Henri Refuto.
Cooking should not be neglected, it even says roughly on the neat packaging that each customer receives: “one minute and thirty seconds maximum in boiling water, drain and it’s ready”. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and some parmigiano.